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10 Traits of a Successful Car Salesman

Selling cars for a living is not for everyone, but if you are the right fit to be a car salesman these ten points will practically ensure you become a successful car salesman. The job of a car salesman is a bit like having a business of your own inside a car dealership. Having your own car selling business allows you to control how much you earn by your level of commitment to the profession. A successful car salesman can earn a six figure income and I have heard of some earning close to $250,000 a year. Implement these car salesman traits and you can join the ranks of the top salesmen and saleswomen that enjoy the peace of mind and security of a six figure income.

1. Commitment: As I mentioned earlier you control your own level of car salesman success in direct proportion to the amount of effort and the level of commitment that you apply to the business of selling cars. Most car salesmen work on a commission basis which can result in an irregular weekly pay check which makes some people shy away from being a car salesman, but the upside is that you will be paid according to your skills, abilities and production. The pay plan of a car salesman allows you to control your car salesman income, but you must make the commitment to being a good car salesperson without second guessing yourself. There is no “I will give it a try” or “maybe it will work out”. There is only a full 100% percent level of commitment to becoming a successful car salesman.

2. Positive Attitude: Being a successful car salesman will go hand in hand with your attitude. When you are dealing with a customer your tools are your words, actions, reactions and knowledge. When you interact with a potential car buyer a positive attitude is a must. You need to be positive and confident in order to put the customer at ease so they can make the major decisions that are needed to buy a car. If you have a positive attitude your customer will have a positive attitude and that will make selling them a much easier task.

3. Goals: Setting and tracking goals are one of the common traits of most successful car salespeople. They set goals for their monthly and yearly income along with weekly and daily goals for cars sold, ups taken and closing ratio. A top car saleswoman or man pays close attention to their goals and tracks their progress either daily or weekly. They know their status and there are no surprises at the end of the month or year.

4. Enthusiasm: The enthusiastic auto salesman has an advantage over the average salesman. When you help your potential vehicle buyer in an enthusiastic manner it becomes contagious and your customer becomes enthused with the process of buying a car. Be eager and excited to show them the vehicle and its features and get your customer involved. A higher level of enthusiasm will practically make you a more successful car salesman.

5. Product Knowledge: Granted, product knowledge will not guarantee car sales success, but it definitely helps. Car buyers have a habit of asking questions that they know the answers to as a way to test their sales person. They are rarely important questions, but they try to catch their car salesman in a lie. If they catch you lying to them about something small they will never trust you when it comes to pricing and payments. Knowing the answers to their car buying questions will put you miles ahead of a car salesman that lies to their customer or doesn’t know their product.

6. Personal Management: The most successful car salesmen and saleswomen have learned to manage themselves and their time efficiently. They don’t hang around with the bottom feeders waiting for ups and complaining about management, traffic or anything else that comes to mind. They are busy calling be backs, doing follow up and arranging deliveries.

7. Selling Cars is about Relationships: Every once in a while selling a car can be a quick business transaction, but more often than not it is a time consuming process. The person that is about to spend $20,000 on a new car is not very likely to feel good about buying that new car from someone they don’t like. People like to buy from people they respect, like and believe are the best person to sell them a car. All of the steps to a sale are important, but the successful car salesperson will always look, act and talk like a professional automobile sales person. Sell you, the dealership and then the car.

8. Have a Daily Plan: You know what they say, “if you fail to plan, you plan to fail”. The successful car salesman has a daily plan which includes all the things they need to accomplish. Their daily “To Do” list may include calling past customers, scheduling deliveries, ordering accessories and of course taking fresh ups. Whatever it may be, it is a plan to achieve their goals and become a more successful car salesman.

9. Stay in Touch: When car salesmen are successful you will notice that they sell cars to the same customer more than once over the years. They keep track of their past customers through letters, cards, email or the telephone. They let their past customers know of sales, new models and special events that may be of interest to them. The salesman is providing a service to them which they appreciate and then return to buy again and again.

10. Self Improvement: A top car salesman is always learning about new models, new features and anything else that will make them better. They attend auto manufacturer training classes, monitor the competition and are always looking for ways to make themselves more valuable to their new and past car buying customers.

These 10 successful car salesman tips and traits will help you increase both your sales and your income by becoming an asset to your customer. There are always car dealerships looking for good sales people. Top car salesmen and saleswoman can work anywhere because they sell cars, lots of cars.

Auto Air Conditioning Repair 101

When your car or truck A / C is not blowing "cold air", the first thought is to panic. $$$$ Signs are going through your mind. Your A / C is broken and the repair is going to be expensive. This article takes the mystery out of automotive air conditioning and serves as a primer so that you can make common repairs yourself and save MONEY on professional repairs.

A / C Principles

There are books and publications that contain volumes of information on the subject of air conditioning repair. This information is often too technical for the you to learn how-to fix your auto air conditioning system.

In the nutshell, here is all that you need to know about the fundamentals of refrigeration so that you can fix your auto air conditioning system yourself.

Air conditioning is the process in which air inside the passenger compartment is cooled, dried, and circulated. Heat is removed from inside the vehicle and transferred to the outside air.

All air conditioners whether, it is an auto A / C, household refrigerator or home HVAC, work on the same principles. Namely, a liquid refrigerant is changed to a gas and then back to a liquid. If a change-of-state of the refrigerant is to take place, heat transfer must take place. The two (2) rules that apply to refrigerant are:

1. Refrigerant in a gaseous state collects, absorbs, and holds heat.
2. Refrigerant in a liquid state releases that heat.

A / C Operation and Components

For your auto A / C to blow "cold air", R-134A refrigerant must pass through and change state in three (3) components, one (1) receiver-dryer, and one (1) expansion valve that makes up the closed auto air conditioning system. The components of the system are:

1. Compressor – A device that pressurizes the heated refrigerant ..

2. Condenser – A radiator for refrigerant that transfers the heat that was absorbed in the passenger compartment to the cooler air.

3. Evaporator – Is a small radiator located under dash in the passenger compartment. Liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator creates a pressure loss. The liquid refrigerant absorbs heat from the air blowing across the evaporator. It then boils and changes state to vapor before it enters the suction port of the compressor.

4. Receiver-Dryer – Is a canister that stores the liquid refrigerant when the compressor is not running. It contains a desiccant that removes moisture from the system.

5. Expansion Valve – Is a metering device that controls the amount of refrigerant to the evaporator.

A / C Quick Check

A check that can easily be made to check the health of the A / C system is the "feel check". With engine running, turn the auto A / C control to "ON" and the blower on "high". Take a test drive to warm the engine until the A / C system pressures stabilize. Raise the hood. With the A / C "On", locate the large tubing connected and routed from the compressor (low side) to the expansion valve (inlet side) of the evaporator. Next, locate the small tubing that is connected to the discharge-side of the compressor and routed to the outlet side of the evaporator. When you feel these two (2) lines, you should observe these results:

1. The low-side line should feel "cool" to the touch.
2. The high-side line should feel "warm" to the touch.

If the high-side tubing is not warm and the low-side is not cool, further tests will have to be made as the system is not doing any work. There is an internal problem; such as, a defective component or a leak in your A / C system.

Testing A / C System

Before system temperature tests can be made, a checklist should be followed (below) to setup for testing the A / C system:

1. Set the A / C "ON-OFF" switch to "ON".
2. Set the temperature control to "maximum cooling".
3. Set the blower on "high" or the highest number on the control switch.
4. Temperature inside passenger compartment should be stable and getting cooler.
5. Engine speed must be a minimum of 1500 rpm's.
6. All windows should be be in the "UP" position.

Check Temperature

Your compact car or truck has a small capacity A / C system and a loss of "cooling" would be more noticeable than a larger capacity auto A / C system. If a noticeable loss of "cooling" capacity is noticed, a temperature check at the vent registers should be made. This check can be made with an instant read or digital temperature thermometer .. The discharge air from the vents in the passenger compartment should range from 38 to 42 degrees F.

A / C System Diagnosis

Assuming that the discharge air test measured at the vent registers is out-of-range, a system pressure test will have to be made. Professional A / C technicians connect a tool known as the manifold gauge set to the "low" and "high" side service valves of the system. For you to diagnose and look inside the A / C, it will be necessary to become proficient in the use of the manifold gauge set.

A manifold gauge set that is suitable for the needs can be purchased at most auto supply stores and Internet A / C tool and supply store fronts for less than $ 50.00. TIP: Look for a gauge set that has a built-in sight glass.

Locate the "low" and "high" side service valves .. Connect the hoses (they are a snap connector fit) to the service valves in the following manner :.

1. Connect the blue hose of the gauge set to the "low-side" service valve of the compressor.
2. Connect the red hose of the gauge set to the "high-side service valve of the compressor.
3. The yellow hose of the gauge set is connected to a vacuum pump or a refrigerant can to add refrigerant to the system. The yellow hose is not connected to the system at this time.

Static Test

If you find an out-of-range temperature reading, the manifold gauge set should be installed on the "low" and "high-side" service valves. With the engine "OFF" and the compressor and clutch not engaged, the blue "low-side" and red "high-side" gauges should show equal readings of approximately 80 to 120psi. These readings would indicate that there is a refrigerant charge in your A / C system. If the readings were 50psi on each gauge, this would indicate that there is refrigerant in the system but a LOW CHARGE. If the readings were 10 to 20psi on each gauge would indicate that there is little or no refrigerant in your A / C system.

Engine Running Test

Start the engine, .turn the A / C switch "ON" with the blower on "high" and run for a minimum of fifteen (15) minutes. Observe the reading on the manifold gauge set. TIP: A manifold gauge set with a built-in sight glass (mentioned above) will save you diagnostic time as most A / C systems do not have a sight glass built-in the receiver-dryer on the high side of the system.

With this feature, you look for bubbling refrigerant oil and refrigerant in the sight glass on the manifold. Oil moving through the glass would indicate that the compressor and clutch are engaged. Refrigerant is being moved from the low-side throughout the A / C system in the refrigeration cycle.

Low Charge

With the engine running, A / C switch "ON", and the manifold gauge set installed, a "low-side" pressure reading of 20psi over 150psi would indicate that your A / C system has a LOW CHARGE. The low reading of 150psi on the "high-side" gauge would be the tell tale that the system is doing very little work. A LOW CHARGE usually is an indicator that there is a refrigerant leak from a component on the "low" or "high-side" of the A / C system. A refrigerant leak in the system would have to be repaired for the A / C system to blow "cold air". TIP: REFRIGERANT DOES NOT WEAR OUT, IT LEAKS OUT. Some symptoms to look for a LOW CHARGE condition are:

1. Compressor clutch short cycling.
2. Clutch will not engage.
3. Little or no cooling.
4. Oily residue on hoses and components.

Leak Checking

For your A / C system to blow "cold air", refrigerant leaks will have to be found and repaired. Usually, leaks in an A / C system are minor and can be fixed with a screwdriver or hand tools. Most A / C systems use schrader valves for easy connection of the manifold gauge set. That said, these are no more than overgrown bicycle valves that use a valve core. When you are checking a system, the valves are the first place check for a leak. Other targets; such as, oil residue on hoses connected to the compressor is the second place that should be checked. TIP: When tightening the bolts to the suction and discharge ports of the compressor with hand tools, do not over tighten. Rubber 0-rings are placed on the suction and discharge ports of the compressor for sealing. The seals will create a leak when over tightened. Only tighten snug.

When your A / C system has a LOW CHARGE, a refrigerant charge will have to added to check for the leak. Refrigerant that contains a dye for leak checking a system is used for this purpose. The manifold gauge set, refrigerant, and a can tap valve will be needed to add refrigerant to check for a leak in the system.

Connect the manifold gauge set as discussed above. Connect the yellow hose to the can tap valve and front seat (turn clockwise) the valve. Close the blue gauge on the manifold gauge set. Open the valve on the can tap valve. Slowly open the valve on the blue or "low-side" gauge and let the refrigerant flow from the refrigerant can into the system until you see a reading of 60psi on the "low-side" gauge. TIP: Placing the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water will allow the vapor refrigerant to enter the A / C system quicker. WARNING: Do not invert the refrigerant can. Doing so will allow liquid refrigerant to enter the system resulting in a ruined compressor.

Professional A / C technicians use an electronic leak detector to find leaks in an system. Use a battery-powered UV leak detector kit and special UV glasses. This kit can be purchased at auto supply stores and Internet A / C supply store fronts.

The UV glasses should be worn when checking for leaks. Simply place the tip of the detector on a fitting or connection to each component to be checked in the A / C system. When a leak is found, a light greenish color will be seen through the UV glasses.

Air Flow

An often overlooked cause of your A / C system not blowing "cold air" is debris that clogs the condenser. Bugs, plastic bags, and leaves from city and highway driving will prevent air from passing through the fins of the condenser. The condenser should be cleaned with a cleaning solvent. Bent fins on the condenser should be straightened with a fin comb.

Restrictions

A restriction is a condition that is a blockage. Usually, it is traced to the outlet side of the condenser. Some form of debris has formed causing a restriction of refrigerant flow through the condenser tubes .. The passages in the tubes of most condensers that are used in compact cars and trucks are very small. An effective way to diagnose a restriction in your A / C system is the manifold gauge set. The "high-side" (red) gauge would move into the DANGER zone, over 300psi.

System Repairs

When a system has been opened, and a component removed, moisture has entered the system. For your A / C to blow "cold air", that moisture will have to be removed with the aid of a vacuum pump.

At this stage of the repair, you have two (2) choices to finish the repair of your A / C system. The first choice is take the car or truck to an A / C professional. At their shop, they will evacuate the system, check your work, and recharge the A / C system for a fee.

The second choice is to repair your A / C system yourself. You will need to borrow or buy a vacuum pump to finish the repair. A small 2-stage vacuum pump that is designed for automobile refrigeration systems is available for less than $ 100.00.

After replacing a component, moisture has entered the system during the repair. For the A / C system to blow "cold air" the moisture will have to be removed. Install the manifold gauge set to your car or truck service valves as described above. After repairs, your A / C system is evacuated and recharged by applying the below steps:

1. Blue hose to the "low-side" service valve.

2. Red hose to the "high-side service valve.

3. Yellow hose to the suction port of the vacuum pump.

4. Close the hand valve to the vacuum pump.

5. Back seat (open) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges of the manifold gauge set.

6. Connect the electrical power to the vacuum pump.

7. Open the hand valve on the vacuum pump.

8. Run the vacuum pump for three (3) minutes.

9. The needle on the "low-side" gauge (blue) show should be in a vacuum at 28.3hg.

10. A system with no leaks will pull a vacuum of 28.3hg in three (3) minutes.

11. If the needle of the blue gauge did not fall to 28.3hg, the evacuation will have to be aborted as there is a leak in your car or truck A / C system.

12. The leak will have to be found in the A / C system using the UV detector and UV glasses.

13. Once the leak has been found and repaired, continue the evacuation steps as described above for 25 minutes.

14. Front seat (close) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges and observe the needle on the blue gauge.

15. The needle should hold steady at 29hg, indicating a tight system with no leaks.

16. Any needle movement toward "0" on the blue "low-side" gauge would indicate a leak in the system and the evacuation would have to be aborted and conduct a search for the leak.

16.Look in the owners manual or service manual for the factory recommended refrigerant charge. It is usually from 16 to 28 ounces.

17.Attach the can tap valve to a can of refrigerant Make sure that the tap valve hand valve is front seated (closed).

18. Turn the A / C control switch to the "ON" position and blower switch to "high".

19. Start the engine and run at 1500rpm's.

20. Place the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water. Warning: Do not invert the can for this process as liquid would enter the system and ruin the reed valves of the compressor.

21. Continue this process until the factory charge (approximately 2 1/2 cans) has entered the system.

22. Shutoff your car or truck engine and let the A / C system stabilize. When the readings on the red and blue gauges are equal, remove the blue "low-side" hose from the service valve.

23. Restart the engine and remove the red "high-side" hose from the service valve.

24. Close the hood and take your car or truck for a three (3) mile test drive.

25. Place an instant read or digital thermometer in the vent register in the passenger compartment.

26. The temperature should range from 38 to 42 degrees F on a 90-degree day.

Tools and Materials

1. Manifold gauge set
2. Vacuum pump
3. Hand tools
4. Battery powered UV leak detector
5. Can tap valve
6. 134A refrigerant dye
7. 134A refrigerant
8. Instant read temperature thermometer
9. Digital temperature thermometer

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Versus Original Equipment Equivalent (OEE) – Auto Glass

But I Thought You Said This Windshield Was Original Equipment?

Here is a common story for a consumer. A person has a brand new or leased vehicle and a piece of glass becomes damaged. They call an auto glass company and the consumer is told OEE is an original equipment equivalent replacement piece for their vehicle. But when the auto glass technician shows up to complete the replacement, the piece of glass does not actually have the vehicle makers OEM manufacturer logo.

OEM – Original parts installed by the vehicle’s maker during the assembly of your vehicle.

OEE – Parts produced for installation in the “aftermarket” by third party companies.

What Is OEM Auto Glass? (Original Equipment Manufacturer)

When a new vehicle is designed the vehicle maker can use an existing windshield part from an older model vehicle, or they can create a whole new windshield and part number. If the decision is made to create a whole new windshield the vehicle maker contracts a glass manufacturer to create the part. The glass manufacturer and vehicle maker create a unique mold and a unique molding/firing process to produce the OEM windshield (Original Equipment Manufacturer). The parts are installed when the vehicle is assembled at the vehicle makers factory.

OEM parts are available for purchase through your local dealership or through an auto glass company. Do be aware that OEM installations through a dealer will be significantly higher priced than choosing a third party company for the replacement. OEM parts are typically more expensive than OEE. In fact, OEM can cost over 100% more. Although Carlite (Ford) windshields are extremely affordable!

What Is OEE or OE Auto Glass? (Original Equipment Equivalent)

After a new vehicle has reached dealerships and is sold to consumers, third party glass manufacturers will actually acquire OEM glass and reverse engineer a mold to manufacture their own aftermarket glass parts. This mold is created after they digitize an outline of the part. Then the companies create a firing process to bend and shape the glass. OEE aftermarket parts are slightly different in size, they have slight differences in the bend of the glass, and the glass may have high distortion when viewed from a side angle. All of these differences may be minimal or dramatic depending on the manufacturer. The cheaper the glass, the cheaper the manufacturing was.

Removal Of The Manufacturer Logo

Some auto glass installation companies remove the windshields manufacturer logo to fool consumers into thinking its actually OEM. Remember to never buy glass without a manufacturer product label. The label is usually about 1 square inch in size and is located in the bottom areas of the windshield right above the painted black ceramic band. The manufacturer logo includes information about where the glass was manufactured, and has information for the Department of Transportation. Removing the logo is illegal.

What Are The Main Differences Between OEM and OEE.

1. Side View Clarity – All glass that is bent during manufacturing has some distortion when viewed from a side angle. This can be described as waves or waviness. Aftermarket glass is pressed, molded and fired during manufacturing in a slightly different way than the original process set by the vehicle maker. As a result of the difference in manufacturing the aftermarket process typically creates more distortion in glass when viewed from a side angle. Sometimes its a lot more!

2. Safety – Both types of glass meet all federal safety standards and also go through testing at such places as AMECA, Automotive Manufacturer’s Equipment Compliance Agency Inc.. Because both types meet certain safety guidelines, many auto glass installation companies push the argument that aftermarket is equivalent to the vehicle makers original replacement equipment simply based on this one similarity.

3. Glass Thickness – The federal government actually has mandates on the thickness of a windshield. Most windshields are between 2-3mm (millimeters) thick. OEE glass may have a.01mm or more difference in thickness. This may result in the idea that aftermarket is more cheap. Although this is still as safe and equivalent to OEM, I find it is different none the less and may have a higher risk of cracking from debris impacts.

4. Black Ceramic Paint Design – Both types of glass will typically have the same exact paint designs around the edges of the glass, although there are a few unique OEM windshields out there. This black design only hides areas from view (ex: under the dashboard, behind side pillars) and it protects the urethane glass adhesive from UV emitted by the sun. UV will degrade the adhesive which will result in the glass falling out or coming loose. One of the few differences found in paints bands may be, the vehicle maker or vehicle model logos embedded in the design. An example is a Ford Mustang windshield. The OEM windshield includes a picture of the Mustang logo above the rear view mirror bracket in the third visor.

5. The Manufacturer/Vehicle Maker Logo – OEM windshields have a logo that matches all of the other pieces of glass on your vehicle. This is the easiest to see if a piece of glass has been changed before, or to confirm if an auto glass company has ordered the right glass for you. The logo will either have the vehicle maker logo or the original vendor logo.

6. Rear View Mirror Brackets And Sensors – Aftermarket windshields (OEE) use a different process to adhere the mirror brackets to the glass. I find that their quality of adhesion and location is not as accurate as OEM parts. In fact, aftermarket distributors repeatedly drip glue on the glass below the bracket which may stain the black ceramic band on the interior side of the glass. When it comes to sensor components such as a rain sensors, the problem it not as rampant. But on a BMW windshield, a mirror bracket not correctly aligned may hinder the re-installation of the mirror’s plastic cover assembly which hides the sensor and bracket.

So Which Windshield Should I Choose, OEM or OEE?

The biggest impact on your decision will be budget. OEM parts are almost always higher priced. Most consumers simply choose OEE because they have no choice, everyone needs to save a few bucks. Don’t be scared of choosing aftermarket glass though because safety is mostly impacted by the technician installing the windshield correctly, not the glass itself. But if you really love your vehicle and expect the best quality, you should choose OEM. And if you are leasing your vehicle, your dealer may have restrictions on what type of glass is acceptable upon returning the vehicle. You may get a fee added if you have an aftermarket glass installed. Call your dealer for more information.

Benefits of Buying Used Cars

Having a car is a privilege and a responsibility. It ensures that one will have reliable transportation to a job and virtually wherever else they would like to go. New vehicles are desirable for obvious reasons. The shiny appeal of something never played with by anyone else, the fresh paint, the latest technology, and the impressive modern accessories all add to the allure of an untouched automobile.

What might be less appealing is the price these days. Reports show that the typical American cannot afford the average price of a new car in 24 out of 25 of the nation’s largest metro areas. The rising price doesn’t make having this mode of transit any less necessary in most pockets of our society. An impressive 85% of the workforce in this country uses personal transportation as the primary way of getting to their place of occupation. Used cars are more than just a previously worn vessel. They are an opportunity for someone who cannot afford the most recent addition to the lot to experience freedom and mobility.

Getting the Most for Your Money

It is no secret that vehicles depreciate rapidly. The original owners get to experience this first hand as they watch the appraised value of their cherished purchase diminish quickly (10% in the first year). Buying a used car eliminates this component of the ownership process. If it is still relatively recent, the devaluation will probably not be detectable in the physical features. Registration fees are also usually lower, saving even more money.

A Comfortable Way from A to B

While all-new everything can be attractive, it can also wreck one’s nerves. Buying a clean, well-maintained pre-owned vehicle can ease this tension. Drivers of used cars should still take pride in their ride, but it makes things easier knowing that any mishap will not likely be the first.

Insurance Benefits

Depending on age and history, insurance can be one of the more costly responsibilities associated with driving. Deciding to go with a previously loved set of wheels can relieve this burden. The comprehensive, theft, and collision coverage rates will be lower for used cars. Of course, it is important to take into account just how weathered it is. Older models might have higher insurance costs due to lack of certain safety features. Then there is the exception of what one might call an “ultra used” automobile, meaning those that qualify as antiques, which are eligible for a completely different type of coverage.

While is it almost essential to normal professional and social life to have a means of transportation, it is not necessary to buy the latest product of the auto industry. Weigh your options to save your wallet and your peace of mind.

3 Ways to Start an Auto Repossession Business Without a Tow Truck

With auto repossessions at an all-time high, getting into the repo business has never looked more lucrative.  And while you can make up to $500 per repo’ed car, investing in a tow truck isn’t cheap.

The good news is, you probably don’t need a tow truck to start your own repo business.  Here’s 3 ways you can get started in the repo industry on a shoestring budget:

Tip #1 – Partner With A Locksmith and Literally Drive The Repo Cars Away!

Nowadays, finance companies keep key codes on file for every car they own.  The key codes are a “blueprint” that tells locksmiths exactly how to create a key the same as the original.

Even if the bank doesn’t have the key codes, you can find companies online that will supply key codes for any domestic or foreign vehicle in less than an hour.  All you need to give them is the make, model and VIN number.

With your original key in hand, you can have someone follow you to the repo site and you can drive the car away!

Tip #2 – Work From Home and Help Banks Track Down Repo Cars

You don’t need to be a repo man to earn a living in the repossession industry.  You can start out by helping banks or dealerships track down hard-to-find debtors.  This service is called skip-tracing.  And they’re willing to pay big money for it since their cars are worth thousands of dollars.

You can charge $30-$100/hour to provide skip tracing services to banks – or even other repossession companies.  Of course, you’ll need to invest time and money in good training, but it’s well worth it considering you could make $60,000 starting out – without a degree!

Tip #3 – Become A Repo Job Broker

If you don’t like working nights and dealing with confrontational people, you could setup a web site to get repossession job leads in your town, and sell those leads to other repo businesses.  Then, as you gain more experience in the repo industry, you could take on more and more jobs yourself.

While these money-making tips are no substitute for having the right repossession tools, they’ll help you make money to pay for the equipment you’ll need later on!

Auto Air Conditioning Repair 101

When your car or truck A / C is not blowing "cold air", the first thought is to panic. $$$$ Signs are going through your mind. Your A / C is broken and the repair is going to be expensive. This article takes the mystery out of automotive air conditioning and serves as a primer so that you can make common repairs yourself and save MONEY on professional repairs.

A / C Principles

There are books and publications that contain volumes of information on the subject of air conditioning repair. This information is often too technical for the you to learn how-to fix your auto air conditioning system.

In the nutshell, here is all that you need to know about the fundamentals of refrigeration so that you can fix your auto air conditioning system yourself.

Air conditioning is the process in which air inside the passenger compartment is cooled, dried, and circulated. Heat is removed from inside the vehicle and transferred to the outside air.

All air conditioners whether, it is an auto A / C, household refrigerator or home HVAC, work on the same principles. Namely, a liquid refrigerant is changed to a gas and then back to a liquid. If a change-of-state of the refrigerant is to take place, heat transfer must take place. The two (2) rules that apply to refrigerant are:

1. Refrigerant in a gaseous state collects, absorbs, and holds heat.
2. Refrigerant in a liquid state releases that heat.

A / C Operation and Components

For your auto A / C to blow "cold air", R-134A refrigerant must pass through and change state in three (3) components, one (1) receiver-dryer, and one (1) expansion valve that makes up the closed auto air conditioning system. The components of the system are:

1. Compressor – A device that pressurizes the heated refrigerant ..

2. Condenser – A radiator for refrigerant that transfers the heat that was absorbed in the passenger compartment to the cooler air.

3. Evaporator – Is a small radiator located under dash in the passenger compartment. Liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator creates a pressure loss. The liquid refrigerant absorbs heat from the air blowing across the evaporator. It then boils and changes state to vapor before it enters the suction port of the compressor.

4. Receiver-Dryer – Is a canister that stores the liquid refrigerant when the compressor is not running. It contains a desiccant that removes moisture from the system.

5. Expansion Valve – Is a metering device that controls the amount of refrigerant to the evaporator.

A / C Quick Check

A check that can easily be made to check the health of the A / C system is the "feel check". With engine running, turn the auto A / C control to "ON" and the blower on "high". Take a test drive to warm the engine until the A / C system pressures stabilize. Raise the hood. With the A / C "On", locate the large tubing connected and routed from the compressor (low side) to the expansion valve (inlet side) of the evaporator. Next, locate the small tubing that is connected to the discharge-side of the compressor and routed to the outlet side of the evaporator. When you feel these two (2) lines, you should observe these results:

1. The low-side line should feel "cool" to the touch.
2. The high-side line should feel "warm" to the touch.

If the high-side tubing is not warm and the low-side is not cool, further tests will have to be made as the system is not doing any work. There is an internal problem; such as, a defective component or a leak in your A / C system.

Testing A / C System

Before system temperature tests can be made, a checklist should be followed (below) to setup for testing the A / C system:

1. Set the A / C "ON-OFF" switch to "ON".
2. Set the temperature control to "maximum cooling".
3. Set the blower on "high" or the highest number on the control switch.
4. Temperature inside passenger compartment should be stable and getting cooler.
5. Engine speed must be a minimum of 1500 rpm's.
6. All windows should be be in the "UP" position.

Check Temperature

Your compact car or truck has a small capacity A / C system and a loss of "cooling" would be more noticeable than a larger capacity auto A / C system. If a noticeable loss of "cooling" capacity is noticed, a temperature check at the vent registers should be made. This check can be made with an instant read or digital temperature thermometer .. The discharge air from the vents in the passenger compartment should range from 38 to 42 degrees F.

A / C System Diagnosis

Assuming that the discharge air test measured at the vent registers is out-of-range, a system pressure test will have to be made. Professional A / C technicians connect a tool known as the manifold gauge set to the "low" and "high" side service valves of the system. For you to diagnose and look inside the A / C, it will be necessary to become proficient in the use of the manifold gauge set.

A manifold gauge set that is suitable for the needs can be purchased at most auto supply stores and Internet A / C tool and supply store fronts for less than $ 50.00. TIP: Look for a gauge set that has a built-in sight glass.

Locate the "low" and "high" side service valves .. Connect the hoses (they are a snap connector fit) to the service valves in the following manner :.

1. Connect the blue hose of the gauge set to the "low-side" service valve of the compressor.
2. Connect the red hose of the gauge set to the "high-side service valve of the compressor.
3. The yellow hose of the gauge set is connected to a vacuum pump or a refrigerant can to add refrigerant to the system. The yellow hose is not connected to the system at this time.

Static Test

If you find an out-of-range temperature reading, the manifold gauge set should be installed on the "low" and "high-side" service valves. With the engine "OFF" and the compressor and clutch not engaged, the blue "low-side" and red "high-side" gauges should show equal readings of approximately 80 to 120psi. These readings would indicate that there is a refrigerant charge in your A / C system. If the readings were 50psi on each gauge, this would indicate that there is refrigerant in the system but a LOW CHARGE. If the readings were 10 to 20psi on each gauge would indicate that there is little or no refrigerant in your A / C system.

Engine Running Test

Start the engine, .turn the A / C switch "ON" with the blower on "high" and run for a minimum of fifteen (15) minutes. Observe the reading on the manifold gauge set. TIP: A manifold gauge set with a built-in sight glass (mentioned above) will save you diagnostic time as most A / C systems do not have a sight glass built-in the receiver-dryer on the high side of the system.

With this feature, you look for bubbling refrigerant oil and refrigerant in the sight glass on the manifold. Oil moving through the glass would indicate that the compressor and clutch are engaged. Refrigerant is being moved from the low-side throughout the A / C system in the refrigeration cycle.

Low Charge

With the engine running, A / C switch "ON", and the manifold gauge set installed, a "low-side" pressure reading of 20psi over 150psi would indicate that your A / C system has a LOW CHARGE. The low reading of 150psi on the "high-side" gauge would be the tell tale that the system is doing very little work. A LOW CHARGE usually is an indicator that there is a refrigerant leak from a component on the "low" or "high-side" of the A / C system. A refrigerant leak in the system would have to be repaired for the A / C system to blow "cold air". TIP: REFRIGERANT DOES NOT WEAR OUT, IT LEAKS OUT. Some symptoms to look for a LOW CHARGE condition are:

1. Compressor clutch short cycling.
2. Clutch will not engage.
3. Little or no cooling.
4. Oily residue on hoses and components.

Leak Checking

For your A / C system to blow "cold air", refrigerant leaks will have to be found and repaired. Usually, leaks in an A / C system are minor and can be fixed with a screwdriver or hand tools. Most A / C systems use schrader valves for easy connection of the manifold gauge set. That said, these are no more than overgrown bicycle valves that use a valve core. When you are checking a system, the valves are the first place check for a leak. Other targets; such as, oil residue on hoses connected to the compressor is the second place that should be checked. TIP: When tightening the bolts to the suction and discharge ports of the compressor with hand tools, do not over tighten. Rubber 0-rings are placed on the suction and discharge ports of the compressor for sealing. The seals will create a leak when over tightened. Only tighten snug.

When your A / C system has a LOW CHARGE, a refrigerant charge will have to added to check for the leak. Refrigerant that contains a dye for leak checking a system is used for this purpose. The manifold gauge set, refrigerant, and a can tap valve will be needed to add refrigerant to check for a leak in the system.

Connect the manifold gauge set as discussed above. Connect the yellow hose to the can tap valve and front seat (turn clockwise) the valve. Close the blue gauge on the manifold gauge set. Open the valve on the can tap valve. Slowly open the valve on the blue or "low-side" gauge and let the refrigerant flow from the refrigerant can into the system until you see a reading of 60psi on the "low-side" gauge. TIP: Placing the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water will allow the vapor refrigerant to enter the A / C system quicker. WARNING: Do not invert the refrigerant can. Doing so will allow liquid refrigerant to enter the system resulting in a ruined compressor.

Professional A / C technicians use an electronic leak detector to find leaks in an system. Use a battery-powered UV leak detector kit and special UV glasses. This kit can be purchased at auto supply stores and Internet A / C supply store fronts.

The UV glasses should be worn when checking for leaks. Simply place the tip of the detector on a fitting or connection to each component to be checked in the A / C system. When a leak is found, a light greenish color will be seen through the UV glasses.

Air Flow

An often overlooked cause of your A / C system not blowing "cold air" is debris that clogs the condenser. Bugs, plastic bags, and leaves from city and highway driving will prevent air from passing through the fins of the condenser. The condenser should be cleaned with a cleaning solvent. Bent fins on the condenser should be straightened with a fin comb.

Restrictions

A restriction is a condition that is a blockage. Usually, it is traced to the outlet side of the condenser. Some form of debris has formed causing a restriction of refrigerant flow through the condenser tubes .. The passages in the tubes of most condensers that are used in compact cars and trucks are very small. An effective way to diagnose a restriction in your A / C system is the manifold gauge set. The "high-side" (red) gauge would move into the DANGER zone, over 300psi.

System Repairs

When a system has been opened, and a component removed, moisture has entered the system. For your A / C to blow "cold air", that moisture will have to be removed with the aid of a vacuum pump.

At this stage of the repair, you have two (2) choices to finish the repair of your A / C system. The first choice is take the car or truck to an A / C professional. At their shop, they will evacuate the system, check your work, and recharge the A / C system for a fee.

The second choice is to repair your A / C system yourself. You will need to borrow or buy a vacuum pump to finish the repair. A small 2-stage vacuum pump that is designed for automobile refrigeration systems is available for less than $ 100.00.

After replacing a component, moisture has entered the system during the repair. For the A / C system to blow "cold air" the moisture will have to be removed. Install the manifold gauge set to your car or truck service valves as described above. After repairs, your A / C system is evacuated and recharged by applying the below steps:

1. Blue hose to the "low-side" service valve.

2. Red hose to the "high-side service valve.

3. Yellow hose to the suction port of the vacuum pump.

4. Close the hand valve to the vacuum pump.

5. Back seat (open) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges of the manifold gauge set.

6. Connect the electrical power to the vacuum pump.

7. Open the hand valve on the vacuum pump.

8. Run the vacuum pump for three (3) minutes.

9. The needle on the "low-side" gauge (blue) show should be in a vacuum at 28.3hg.

10. A system with no leaks will pull a vacuum of 28.3hg in three (3) minutes.

11. If the needle of the blue gauge did not fall to 28.3hg, the evacuation will have to be aborted as there is a leak in your car or truck A / C system.

12. The leak will have to be found in the A / C system using the UV detector and UV glasses.

13. Once the leak has been found and repaired, continue the evacuation steps as described above for 25 minutes.

14. Front seat (close) the hand valves on the blue and red gauges and observe the needle on the blue gauge.

15. The needle should hold steady at 29hg, indicating a tight system with no leaks.

16. Any needle movement toward "0" on the blue "low-side" gauge would indicate a leak in the system and the evacuation would have to be aborted and conduct a search for the leak.

16.Look in the owners manual or service manual for the factory recommended refrigerant charge. It is usually from 16 to 28 ounces.

17.Attach the can tap valve to a can of refrigerant Make sure that the tap valve hand valve is front seated (closed).

18. Turn the A / C control switch to the "ON" position and blower switch to "high".

19. Start the engine and run at 1500rpm's.

20. Place the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water. Warning: Do not invert the can for this process as liquid would enter the system and ruin the reed valves of the compressor.

21. Continue this process until the factory charge (approximately 2 1/2 cans) has entered the system.

22. Shutoff your car or truck engine and let the A / C system stabilize. When the readings on the red and blue gauges are equal, remove the blue "low-side" hose from the service valve.

23. Restart the engine and remove the red "high-side" hose from the service valve.

24. Close the hood and take your car or truck for a three (3) mile test drive.

25. Place an instant read or digital thermometer in the vent register in the passenger compartment.

26. The temperature should range from 38 to 42 degrees F on a 90-degree day.

Tools and Materials

1. Manifold gauge set
2. Vacuum pump
3. Hand tools
4. Battery powered UV leak detector
5. Can tap valve
6. 134A refrigerant dye
7. 134A refrigerant
8. Instant read temperature thermometer
9. Digital temperature thermometer

The Importance Of Use Of Hydraulic Jacks On Vehicles

A device that is used to lift objects is identified as a jack. These devices are used to lift heavy objects and are used for all types of purposes. They can be used in garages to facilitate raising the level of the vehicle so that the mechanic can get underneath and repair it. They come in various sizes and are capable of lifting different weights depending on the size of the device. They can lift anything from a small car to a big truck. It is understood that due to their weight these objects cannot be raised up just with manual effort. Hydraulic jacks are tools that are specifically designed for this purpose; they are a portable device that is very easy to use.

Hydraulic jacks work very efficiently and are available in different types. Everybody nowadays keeps a jack in the boot of their vehicle in case of an emergency. You never know when you might have an accident or any unfortunate incident that may interrupt your journey? If you are equipped with the required tools then you don’t have to worry even if there is no garage nearby.

Most of us have had to change a tyre at some stage or maybe you have needed to get underneath the car to see if there is a problem with it. The most important thing to remember is that you must ensure that you are using hydraulic jacks properly; you can refer to the user manual that is given to you with the vehicle when you purchased it.

Some damages to your car may pertain to the underneath parts of the car. So, it is obvious that you cannot repair it until and unless, it is visible. This is the time that hydraulic jacks justify their role in society. These tools are simply placed underneath the car and using the lever on it, the car is raised to a certain height. This will enable you to see whether there is any issue with the base of the car, and whether you can repair it.

It is a fact that not everybody may be aware of its functioning but it is necessary to learn how to utilise your hydraulic jack. It will be advised that the users gain all the information regarding these tools so that they don’t have to panic in the case of an emergency. They will be able to fix the issues with the car and continue on their journey. The toolbox of the vehicle must essentially have one of these hydraulic jacks. You will always be ready with the solution if you possess these tools.

How Fast Can Indy Cars Go? – Automobile Racing

Just how fast can Indy cars go? Well, to give you an idea, Indy cars can make it down the length of a football field plus some in less then one second. Jet airliners takeoff speeds are between 160 to 180 miles per hour. Throw some flaps or slats and a pair of wings on an Indy car, point it into the wind and there would be take off; that is how fast Indy cars can go.

Back in 1911 Ray Harroun won the very first Indianapolis 500 averaging just a hair under 75 mph. However, how fast can an Indy car go today? The average speeds of Indy cars today range from 185 to speeds over 230 miles per hour. Qualifying speeds range from 215 to 227 miles per hour. The lowest qualifying speed was recorded back in 1912 when Theodore Pilette ran 75.52 mph for a quarter mile. Back then, you had to run at least 75 mph in a quarter mile to qualify. Kenny Brack did the fastest speed recorded in qualifications at 227.598 mph in a quarter in 2005, followed up by Billy Boat in 2002, running a quarter at 226.589.

So when you ask how fast can Indy Cars go, think of this. Indy cars can accelerate from zero to 100 mph in less than three seconds and use up a gallon of gas in less then two miles. Drivers experience G-force while driving through turns on the track equal to what the space shuttle leaves a launching pad. At speeds of 220 miles per hour, Indy cars generate 5000 pounds of down force. At that speed the tread on the racing tires turn to tar like consistency helping car to adhere to the track.

Indy cars have evolved through time to higher levels of sophistication. In the beginning of the 20th century, speeds of 125 mph on the track where considered impressive. Rules have been modified as technology has improved with racing organizations ensuring the safety of both the drivers and the fans. With the strict rules and regulations, today’s Indy cars are far safer then their earlier counter parts such as the roadsters designs.

In 2010, the Indy Racing League will be implementing new engine rules that will allow the return of turbocharged engines that will have a output of about 750 horsepower ; having either 4 or 6 cylinders. Current specifications in regulations are an output of 650 HP. The 3.5 liter Indy cars on a average produce more then 675 horsepower which is four times more then your average car. So when you question how fast can Indy cars go, averaging 220 mph is pretty fast, but we can expect to see even quicker acceleration and speeds on the raceways in the near future.

Car Rental Insurance: An Innovative Way to Deal With Car Accidents and Breakdowns

A rental car may be a solution for all the problems that relate to the communication. It may give you all the conceivable conveniences during your travel, but together with some risks. But it must be remembered that after hiring a car, you will have to bear the expenses in case, any unexpected thing like an accident or breakdown happens to your luxury vehicles. These incidents may demand a big amount from your end in the form of compensation money. But there is a way following which renters can unravel from these type of circumstances. Car rental insurance is an innovative way to deal with these kinds of problems.

Getting an insurance for your luxury hired car is not a very complicated task at all. You can purchase it from the car hire companies. Salespersons may push you very hard to purchase various insurance policies. But it is always important to choose the right kind of insurance policy which will secure your rental car and you as well. Here are a few policies that can help you out in your need hours.

Collision Damage Waiver: It can protect your vehicle in case of collision of hire cars. You will be acquitted of the compensation for loss or damage of your vehicle. But the insurance company will not be liable to pay anything for the loss or damage of the hire car in case of theft of vehicles or damages occurred to the rental car, if not covered under this policy.

Liability Insurance: Only the collision occurred between two vehicles is not called an accident. Also, we call it an accident when a vehicle hits a man, an animal, a tree, a building or other things that are owned by someone else. Liability insurance policy can bring you out from these kinds of situations if your hire car makes the loss to someone’s property.

Personal Accident Insurance: Also, security of the lives of the passengers holds a great significance along with the security of the hire cars. Personal Accident Insurance keeps the lives of the passengers and drivers secure and provides compensation for the death of the driver and passengers.

Purchase of the insurance policies holds a great significance for renters when they hire their choicest luxury vehicle. Selection of a suitable insurance policy helps a lot to the visitors to curb a great many devastating situations keeping their peace of mind unhurt during the visit.

Autozone Franchise Review

AutoZone is a retailer and distributor of automotive spare parts and accessories. The company is located in Memphis, Tennessee. It is a well established brand in the market place, providing franchise store with instantaneous recognition as the ‘Automotive Store of Choice’ in their area.

The company has an access to the widest variety of products in the premium brands and their own range of Exclusive Brands. This gives an opportunity to franchisees to differentiate their store from the rivalry, and also allows them to increase their margins.

  • Dedicated VIP Loyalty Program is designed by the company in order to encourage cash customers to approach franchise stores repeatedly.
  • In combination with a retail optimization consultancy, AutoZone also assists franchisees in order to find the best location for their store. This ensures that franchisee’s store is positioned in the highest catchment area, and this eventually ensures more feet coming in franchisee’s store.
  • Designing and customization of a store layout, is done by their Store Development Team with a floor plan, to make sure that the location suits the franchise store, franchisee’s needs and the market.
  • With immediate access to company’s progressive computer system, ordering products at all times is ‘just a click away’.
  • Their long history in the market place explains that they have deep-rooted and strong operational relationships with the suppliers in the automotive parts industry.
  • Company’s Marketing Department is persistently structuring the AutoZone brand with television advertising, leaflets and various other promotional techniques. This ensures that franchisee’s customers are always being reminded that the company is the best suitable for shopping for automotive parts and spares.
  • The AutoZone Family comprises the AutoZone Service Centre that assists franchisees with developing and launching of their store. Other facilities available for franchisees include multi-media Call Centre, Buying Department, Legal Department, and Marketing Department.
  • Company has got a dedicated Buying Department whose role is to ensure that franchisees are supplied with the best quality products at economical prices.
  • Company’s product range lists over 90,000 Stock-keeping units, and its top-notch warehousing facility makes it possible for franchisees to order all of the products from just one place.
  • In order to ensure financial and banking services more accessible & affordable to franchisees, Autozone has conferred special rates and services from leading financial institutions.
  • Company’s strong sense of Family has ensured that franchisees’ workers will have an access to enhanced services such as health care, pension funds and funeral cover.
  • Additional training in a variety of business skills is offered by AutoZone’s newly opened Business Skills Development Training Centre. This training covers Catalogue Training, Income Statement Analysis and more.

When looking to start any business it is important, particularly considering today’s market, that you look for specific ways to cut minimize or reduce overhead and risk. Any business is going to have risk, but it is important to have a full understanding of the amount of investment, startup cost and “ROI” (Return on Investment).

Most people are not aware that 80% of ALL franchise endeavors fail in the first two to five years leaving large debts looming for years thereafter.

One way and in my opinion the best way to cut overhead, startup and investment cost is to take advantage of the new age of entrepreneurship and start a business from the comfort of your home. Opportunities have emerged in the online market that are creating millionaires every single day. Learn more about the exciting opportunities tied to a business model that begins profitable by visiting: http://whatsbetterthanafranchise.com.