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Golf Cart Battery Cables Exposed – Does Size Really Matter?

For gas powered carts, the cables need only be of sufficient size to operate the starter motor, which is only for a few seconds at a time. So that answer is no, the originally installed cables are plenty sufficient in size. For those of us who have the more plentiful, battery powered carts, the answer is somewhat more complicated. The short answer for us is, yes and no, depending upon what we expect from the cart or if modifications to the motor or controller have been made.

If the cart is absolutely bone stock (all original with no upgrades) and is used primarily as originally intended around the local course, the standard 6 AWG (aka 6 gauge or #6) cables are perfectly fine. Wire (cable) size is measured by a standard called American Wire Gauge or AWG and relates to the diameter or cross sectional area of the copper conductor itself. The smaller the AWG number, the larger the diameter, and hence, larger current carrying capacity. For example, a 2 AWG cable is larger than a 4 AWG which is larger than a 6 AWG. Most cart manufacturers use 6 AWG cables. The finest cables we have found so far are made by MaxiLink.com, which are super flexible and made for extreme duty electric vehicle use.

Ok, now for you guys that want better performance, we’ll get a little more technical. The maximum current that will ever go through your cables is when the cart is at rest and you mash the gas pedal to the floor. At that point in time, the controller puts out the max power it is capable of, and the motor experiences what is called “locked rotor” current draw, which can be hundreds of amperes. When the motor is in a stalled state, it requires tremendous energy to get it spinning to the rated RPM. If the motor were to stay in the stalled state (if there was some mechanical restraint that would not allow it to turn) the high current would continue to be absorbed by the motor until it actually burned up the windings. Typically though, the motor begins to spin immediately, and the current drops down to 20 or so amperes within a few milliseconds (on a stock cart). There are four things that limit that maximum current; the resistance of the internal windings of the motor, the current capacity of the battery pack, the controller capacity and the resistance of the battery cables. The Battery Pack and Motor windings are pretty much fixed values. Keep these in mind because we will come back to them.

Aftermarket “high torque” or “high speed” motors installed to increase the carts performance are commonplace these days. Unfortunately, that additional performance requires additional power. The motor is only there to convert electrical energy into kinetic energy (not very efficiently either). High power motors have a lower internal resistance than stock, which in turn draws more current. If you remember from science class, power (in watts) is voltage (E) multiplied by the current (I). Since the voltage cannot go any higher than the battery’s 48volts (or 36volts), the current increases in order to satisfy the power demand of the motor. Unfortunately, this is where the resistance of the battery cables come into play. As the current increases in a conductor, power is lost in the form of heat at a rate of I2R, where R is the cable resistance. In an ideal cable and to transfer max power, the cable resistance (R) should be zero ohms. Unfortunately all cables have some resistance. The cable resistance causes the voltage to drop (E=IR) and results in lost power to the motor. The solution; increase the size of the battery cables (the larger the cable the less the resistance). Of course, the cable diameter can only be increased within reasonable mechanical size limitations, but that is what is required to reap the full benefits of a high power aftermarket motor. Our example used the locked rotor current to explain the worst case effects. They are less drastic at partial throttle, where the current draw is significantly less. If you want to do the drag racing, burnouts, wheelies and such with your cart though, you will need the bigger cables to supply the required massive inrush of current to the motor. Although the resistance of the cables seems tiny (#6 = 0.00047ohms/ft vs. #2 = 0.00015 ohms/ft), the voltage drop is significant when large currents are present, which will reduce performance. So for the high power motor users out there, use large diameter cables and keep them as short as possible. Size will matter to you. Look for other articles by Randy Wade and check out www.digitaloverdrivesystems.com regularly for news, tips and performance products including the new Maxilink Extreme Duty EV cables.

Vehicle Safety Alert: Faded Plastic Headlights Can Be Very Dangerous!

Many of today’s modern vehicles headlights are made from a hard plastic called Poly-Carbonate. The plastic is very lightweight and very strong, and most importantly, much cheaper to mass produce. Today’s modern vehicle designs call for dramatic looking headlight styles and the automakers love using plastic for the headlight lens for more than one reason: First of all, plastic is much cheaper to mass produce. Just as important, the plastic lens is also very strong and lightweight. The days of using real glass for the headlight lens are all but gone. The main reason is that it would simply cost a heck of a lot more to make the lens out of glass. Also glass is much heavier than plastic and can be much more dangerous in a collision. The lightweight plastic lens is what the all automakers will continue to use these days mainly because they are always trying to keep the vehicles production costs low, and the automakers also want to keep the vehicle lighter and more economical. While the plastic lens has its many plus sides, the major down side is that the plastic lens will fade dramatically in time. Fading plastic headlight lenses are a problem here to stay, and if the cloudy headlight lenses are not fixed, it can be very dangerous to the driver, (and other motorists) and that is the simple fact of the matter.

Do all plastic headlights fade? The answer is yes! Due to UV exposure, the plastic lenses on all headlight assemblies will become cloudy in time. There is just no way around it! If a plastic headlight lens is exposed to the sun, it will eventually get cloudy and fade. Most automakers will cover the cost for replacement within 3 years, but after that, you are on your own. A cloudy looking lens condition can get much worse in time if not restored. A headlight that is neglected can turn yellow, or even brown, or perhaps a combination of both. This will have a great effect on the ability of the headlight to project light properly. Translation: Poor light output! A faded headlight lens can cut the drivers visibility distance to less than half in some cases. This is a very dangerous position for any driver to be in! Would you drive at night with your sunglasses on? A poor working headlight is basically the same thing. Less light means less visibility! It is very dangerous if the driver cannot properly see the road ahead. With less light output, the driver will have much less reaction time because the headlight beam is simply not projecting enough light to safely see the road ahead.

Please check your headlights! Are they faded? Are they cloudy? Do they appear oxidized? Do they have a yellow or brown tint? These conditions are all caused by UV exposure and age, plus the condition will become worse as the vehicle is subjected to more sunlight. Simply put: The UV rays from the powerful sun will fade the headlight lenses just as it will fade exterior paint. The sun is just too strong for the plastic and it is very important for you to maintain your headlights! There are some simple inexpensive do it yourself kits on the market that can save you some of your hard earned cash, however the results can be very poor. The much smarter choice is using a professional headlight restoration service. First of all don’t let anyone convince you that your expensive headlight assemblies need to be replaced. The only reason for replacement is if there is some really bad sand pitting, or if there are major cracks in the lenses that would allow moisture to get inside the assembly. Also, don’t be fooled by some of the products on the market that claim to be quick restoration kits for headlights. Most of these kits are garbage! Again, I recommend using a professional headlight restoration service that guarantees the restoration to last. Please be safe out there at night, and please check your vehicle’s headlight condition as soon as possible!

Types of Automotive Lifts

Here are the different types, available from garage equipment supply dealers:

In-Ground

This type of vehicle lift is assembled below the garage floor. It consists of one or more pistons, depending on the maximum weight capacity. Lifts with one or two pistons are used for compact, mid-sized and full-sized cars. Lifts with three or more pistons are used for larger vehicles, such as buses and RV’s.

Two Post Surface Mounted

The most common vehicle lift utilized today is called a Two Post Surface Mounted lift. On each column, there are lift arms. These are controlled mechanically, electronically or hydraulically.

Multi-Post Runway Automotive Lift

The most common type is the four-post mounted lift, which is extensively used by oil change, transmission, and muffler service shops. You’ll find this type of auto lift in wheel alignment service stations as well. The car is driven onto the two runways and raised, exposing its underside.

Low/Mid Rise Frame Engaging Lift

This type of vehicle lift engages the vehicle’s frame in lifting. There are two ways this type may operate. One way is scissors-style, moving straight up. Another is parallelogram-style, moving forward or backward, while raising or lowering. This type is commonly used for brake, tire, and wheel services as well as auto body repair.

Drive-On Parallelogram

The Drive-On Parallelogram is a surface-mounted vehicle lift. It has two runways where the wheels of the car should be placed. It has a lifting mechanism that moves the vehicle a short distance forward or backward while raising or lowering. The direction depends on the way the lift is mounted.

Scissor Lifts

The Scissor Lift can either be of a fixed pad type or a roll-on frame/underbody engaging type. It has a lifting mechanism that’s similar to the parallelogram lift. Their main difference is that the scissors lift goes up and down on a straight vertical path.

Movable-Type Wheel Engaging Lift

This type of vehicle lift is used for vehicles that are longer than conventional cars, such as buses and trucks. It consists of several lifting columns in sets of two, four, six, or more. The columns can be moved and connected with the other columns so that their movements are synchronized.

Best HID Kit in the Market – Get One For Your Vehicle

There are a lot of manufacturers of HID’s and there is wide range of Xenon HID’s are available for you to buy. Problem arises when you to go to the market or an online store and find hundreds of HID kit models and off course it is very difficult for anyone to choose a best quality economical HID kit for his vehicle. HID kits are different for each vehicle and also for each vehicle model, for example if you want to buy a HID light for your car, you must have to know about the make and model of your car as a kit of one make or model doesn’t fit for other makes.

As earlier stated that market is flooding with HID’s and now it is difficult for customer to decide what to buy and what will be best for his vehicle. A lot of models for HID’s are available and here I am sharing some good known and best of HID kits in the market for your vehicle.

McCulloch HID:

This HID kit is very different from a lot of kits available in the market. In McCulloch HID kit the bulbs are genuine McCulloch accompanied with IV generation ballasts. For easier installation bases can be molded easily for proper fitting. This HID kit is not designed to blind the traffic coming against you but will only gives you a brighter look of road. Along with traditional wiring, McCulloch HID kit provides a wiring harness that gives power to bulbs directly from battery. These kits and wirings are completely water proof and heat resistant. McCulloch kit is more expensive than other kits available in the market.

Xenon Depot HID:

The xenon Depot HID kit includes original Philips bulbs with slim Philips XLD 145 ballasts that provide perfection of performance to the user. Fitting of this kit is also easy as the bases can be easily molded for custom installation. Xenon Depot HID with all its equipment is also water and heat resistant. A xenon Depot lakes on cost as it is much expensive.

Helios HID:

Another famous name for HID light is Helios and the Helios HID’s are very well known in the market for their best quality and performance. Helios HID light contains 35W HID that is four times more brighter than that of standard halogen headlight. It has a much longer projection distance than other kits. The life of the bulbs of Helios bulbs is also four time longer than the ordinary HID bulbs. With its weather proof parts, Helios kit is best for performance and work nicely in any weather conditions. The bad thing about this is its cost, which is more than many others in the market.

Xtreme HID:

This xenon HID is manufactured with extreme quality Japanese parts and Xtreme HID is best option but is somehow costly than other kits. Xtreme xenon bulbs are calibrated with lasers for correct beam patterns and full performance. The ballasts of this kit are also water proof and heat resistant as all quality HID light. Xtreme kits are very famous in the US market. Cost is not reasonable in many cases for this.

ProLumen HID:

If you are looking for xenon kits that can survive in different weather conditions, here you have ProLumen kit is one of the best kits available in the market. Its bulbs are three times brighter than the traditional bulbs used in halogen headlights and you will get a clearer and brighter road to drive at night. The ProLumen gives you a safe drive at night with its bright 2 Xenon Bulbs, 2 powerful ballasts, 2 xenon igniters, 2 ballast brackets and a user manual that enhances that use and guides you during the each step of installation of this Xenon light. This has great features but also cost is high for this.

Is it Okay to Use Water Instead of Car Coolant?

Even though many people choose to simply put water into their radiators instead of coolant, it is not really a good idea. If you do not have any coolant on hand and must use water, then by all means do so. It is much better than nothing and will definitely keep your vehicle from overheating. Do however, make sure that you purchase some coolant and put it into your radiator at your next available moment. When asked, many people simply do not know the difference between putting water into a vehicle or coolant; so if you have been wondering about this yourself, then you are not alone.

There is a big difference between using proper coolant and water. While water does help to keep your engine cool, it does not work nearly as well as coolant does. First of all, water boils faster and at a lower temperature than does coolant. Another thing that you should keep in mind is that coolant also performs the duties of antifreeze as well. If it is winter, than you risk having your engine block crack if you run your engine with only plain water. Engine coolant also has been formulated to keep the parts in your engine from becoming corroded. Water, it goes without saying, does not possess these qualities.

Now that the importance of always having coolant in your vehicle has been established, it is important that you check your coolant level if you have not done so in awhile. Coolant is very easy to check, and you should probably do so every time you check your oil. First, you should check your overflow tank. This is a clear tank and you can check the level without even taking off the cap. There is a fill line on the side, go ahead and fill it with 50/50 coolant to this point if you need to. If you have unmixed coolant, then you need to mix it with 50 percent water beforehand. Make sure your radiator is filled as well.

It is natural for dirt and residue to clog your cooling system, so doing a full radiator flush is a good idea once in awhile. In order to do this, you will need a wrench or screwdriver, rag, radiator flush solution, funnel, and a receptacle to place the used coolant. Making sure that your engine is cool, drain the coolant that is already in the tank. There is a drain plug on your radiator tank that you’ll need to unscrew. Make sure you have your receptacle underneath for the old coolant. Do not leave the old coolant where a pet or animal may drink it.

Now you have to replace the radiator drain plug. You are ready to put in your radiator flush solution. Unscrew the cap on the top of the radiator and fill it all the way to the top. Let your car run for about 10 minutes with the heater on all the way. After your engine has cooled completely, you may drain the fluid. Now you just have to replace the plug again and fill the tank up with coolant. Do not pour the coolant or flush solution on the ground, dispose of it properly.

The Advantages and Disadvantages of Seized Car Auctions

Nowadays, if somebody drives a posh car, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the person is rich – the luxury vehicle might have been bought at one of the numerous seized car auctions held regularly.

As the name suggests, seized car auctions offer vehicles that were seized by the government or the police due to some illegal activity. Apart from criminals, automobiles at repossessed vehicle auctions come from people failed to pay the mortgage, defaulted on tax payments, etc. The goal of the government is not to cash on these vehicles, but rather get rid of them quickly and avoid storage and maintenance expenses.

Seized car auctions as well as other types of similar auctions have their own advantages and disadvantages. Being aware of them will help you decide whether or not this is the way you want to purchase your vehicle.

Advantages of Seized Car Auctions

1. Unbelievably low starting bid. You can expect 80 and even 90% discount – a great bargain if you compare it with the retailer price.

2. Good condition. Most vehicles sold have been in use not more than 5 years. Quite often, there are cars in a “close to new” condition.

3. History reports available. Ideally, every such auto auction will provide free Car Fax VIN reports. Additionally, you can use an Auto Check Vehicle History to make sure that the car was not damaged in an accident.

4. Possibility to find a rare model. If you are on a lookout for a particular model, especially rare or imported one, chances are you will find it at such an auction. Check online seized car auctions as well – they have an impressive number of listings, so it is really not so hard to find what you want.

Disadvantages of Seized Car Auctions

1. Sold “as is”. After acquiring a vehicle, it is impossible to exchange or return it for a refund. Therefore, take time to assess the vehicle’s condition and check its history.

2. Hard for beginners. If you are a first-timer, a repossessed vehicle auction may seem to be a tough place to you. Needless to say, it is difficult to keep up with experienced car dealers. A friend who is not new to seized car auctions would be of great help. Or, turn to online auto auctions – they are easier to control the bidding process.

3. Time consuming. Searching for the seized car auctions in your area, registration, preliminary checking, attending one (especially if it is quite far from your place), and getting all the necessary paperwork done later may take up to a few weeks. Again, participation in an online auction is easier, though involves more risks and concerns.

With these knowledge in hand, you are in a better position to buy a vehicle that is auctioned. For more details on where and how to pick up your dream car from seized car auctions, read up my blog.

Finding A Car With A Long Life Expectancy

According to Consumer Reports, the average car will last 150,000 miles. If you are buying a newer model and keeping it properly maintained, it may last until 200,000. That still leaves a few car shopping expeditions in the average consumers lifetime. For many of us, car shopping fills us with dread. So we want to start with a car that is naturally inclined to last longer than average.

Honda and Toyota still lead the pack in producing the most reliable cars. But according to a 2010 issue of Consumer Reports, General Motors is stepping up its game to improve previous models and some new models, such as the Cadillac SRX, the Chevrolet Camaro and Equinox and the Buick LaCrosse V6 have a reliable rating from the beginning. Ford remains the most reliable of American made models, while Chrysler is the lowest ranked. And the car hailed by Consumer Reports as yielding the best predicted reliability was the Porsche Boxster.

Retired schoolteacher Irv Gordon drove his red 1966 Volvo P1800 for 2.5 million miles and holds the current Guinness World Record, as certified in the mid 1990s. Of course, such occurrences are extremely rare. But there are services available and steps you can take to increase the longevity of your car, most of which concern the taking proper care and maintenance per the vehicles manual.

A good start for any car owner is to read the manual. Consult it often, and don’t be afraid to take any questions to the dealership. Another simple step is to keep the car clean. Spending oodles of money isn’t necessary, but you should be sure to keep up with routine maintenance. Check fluids every few months (or as suggested by the car manual) to make sure they stay at the proper levels. These include radiator coolant and brake, windshield washer, power steering and transmission fluids. This is very important because these fluids lubricate different parts to reduce friction, heat, and the overall wearing down that can occur over time. Check your manual to see how often the oil and oil filter should be changed; the answer can differ depending on how many miles you drive.

So, if you want to buy a car that will outlast the average of 150,000 miles, start with a car that has a dependable reliability rating, such as a Honda, Acura, Subaru or Ford. If you are buying used, be sure and run a vehicle history report. You can save time searching for your car by using a car search engine such as Piefind.com. Piefind searches multiple classifies ads to bring you a list of relevant possibilities, saving you time and energy.

RV Spring Preparation Checklist

Your RV has been sitting idle over the winter. Now the early signs of spring are here and it’s time to take it out of storage and prepare the coach and chassis for this years camping season. If you’re like me, you want to have some type of logical sequence to follow rather then haphazardly checking the unit out. I made a simple checklist to use so that nothing is overlooked. I prefer to do the majority of spring preparation myself. If you’re more comfortable having someone else do it you can schedule an appointment with a reputable RV service center to have it done.

* Depending on how your unit was winterized it will need to be de-winterized. If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze you need to run fresh water through the entire system until all traces of antifreeze are gone. To remove it from the 12-volt water pump add water to the fresh water-holding tank, turn the pump on and open all water faucets. When the antifreeze is out of the system turn the pump off and take the water heater out of the by-pass mode (if applicable). Re-install any water filter cartridges you removed for storage.

* At this point I like to sanitize the water system. Make sure all of the drains are closed and drain plugs are installed. Take a quarter cup of household bleach for every fifteen gallons of water your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach with water into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water holding tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on and open all faucets, run water until you smell the bleach. Close the faucets and let it sit for at least twelve hours. Drain all of the water and re-fill the tank with fresh water. Turn the pump on and open all faucets until you no longer smell bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process to eliminate all signs of the bleach.

* With the water system under pressure inspect for water leaks. Check the operation of the toilet.

* Wash the unit thoroughly. This is a good time to inspect the roof and body seams, and window sealants for cracking that would allow water to get in. Consult a dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.

* Inspect the operation of the awning and clean the awning fabric as required.

* Inspect the tires for signs of dry rot. Inflate all tires to the recommended COLD tire pressure.

* Lubricate all hinges and locks with spray lubricant.

* Remove any tape or protective covering you may have put over LP gas vents to keep insects and rodents out. Check any mousetraps you may have put out. Open all doors and compartments and check for rodent intrusion and water damage.

* Inspect and clean the interior.

* Plug in any appliances that you unplugged for storage and replace any dry cell batteries you may have removed. This is a good time to put new batteries in items like smoke alarms.

* Test the operation of the carbon monoxide alarm, LP gas leak detector and smoke alarm.

* Check the fire extinguisher. Be sure it is fully charged.

* Reset any breakers you may have turned off. If you removed any fuses for storage re-install them.

* Clean or replace air conditioner filters if it wasn’t done prior to storage and remove any covers that were put over air conditioners.

* Open vents and windows and air the unit out.

* If you removed the coach and chassis batteries for storage install them. Whether they were removed or not check the electrolyte levels, clean the terminals and clamps, and check the charge level in all batteries. Recharge batteries as necessary.

* Check the operation of the electric steps if applicable. Lubricate step mechanism.

* Test the operation of the hydraulic jacks if applicable. Check hydraulic fluid level.

* Test the operation of the back up camera and monitor if applicable.

* If you didn’t change the oil and filters in the generator prior to storage this is a good time to do it. Inspect the generator exhaust system for damage prior to starting. Start and run the generator for two hours with at least a half rated load on it. Consult the generators owner manual for load ratings.

* Turn the generator off and plug the unit into shore power. Turn the refrigerator on in the electric mode. Allow sufficient time to cool and check for proper operation.

* Check all 12-volt interior lights and accessories.

* Test the monitor panel for proper operation.

* Check the operation of slide outs if applicable.

* Check the remaining 120-volt appliances for proper operation.

* Test the Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) for proper operation.

* Turn the refrigerator off, leave the doors open and allow sufficient time for it to get to room temperature so it can be checked in the gas mode.

* Before I use the LP gas system I have a leak test and gas operating pressure test preformed. A qualified technician with the proper equipment should do these tests.

* After this is accomplished turn the LP gas valve on and check the operation of all LP gas appliances. Be sure the water heater is full of water before testing the water heater. If a gas appliance is not operating properly have it inspected by a qualified technician. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas and build nests that can affect the appliance from operating properly.

* If your unit was in long-term storage and you didn’t change the engine oil and filter prior to storage this would be a good time to do it.

* Check all fluid levels in transmission, power steering, engine coolant, engine oil, windshield washer and brakes. Consult vehicle owners manual.

* Start the engine and check for proper readings on all gauges. Check for proper operation of dash air conditioner.

* Perform a complete chassis lubrication if it wasn’t done prior to storage.

* Check the condition of windshield wiper blades and replace them if necessary.

* Check the operation of all chassis lights.

* Make sure the vehicle emissions/inspection sticker is up to date.

* In addition to this if you have a pop-up or travel trailer the wheel bearings and brakes (if equipped) should be inspected at least once annually. Inspect any canvas for dry rot and tears; inspect all hitch work and the coupler for damage. Inspect the breakaway switch and pigtail for proper operation.

Happy Camping ,

Mark

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

Are Bad Credit Motorcycle Loans Possible

Are bad credit motorcycle loans possible? This is a question I am asked over and over again, whether it is just meeting a person on the street or though e-mail from a person that found my motorcycle financing website. Well the short answer is yes bad credit motorcycle loans are totally possible even if you have a bankruptcy on your credit report. However, there are certain things you need to consider before looking for a bad credit cycle loans because you can be taken advantage of just because you have poor credit.

First off understand that over and over again in the world of motorcycle loans, I see cycle buyers with bad credit tend to focus more on desperation for getting approved for motorcycle financing rather than making a good decision for there financial future. As a result, when the typical motorcycle buyer with poor credit is approved they are often stuck with hefty fees, and backend products that leave them paying much more for their motorcycle than they should.

If you have bad credit and need a motorcycle loan, the best advice I can give you is do not let someone tell you that you have to pay document fees, extended protection, Gap insurance or other add on products to get approved. Sure you may have to sacrifice for a higher interest rate on your bad credit motorcycle loan, but you do not have to get taken to the cleaners with a bunch of other fees.

It is the above reasons that it is important to try to sometimes go straight to the lender and find a lender that will finance bad credit motorcycle loans I am not going to tell you that it is easy to get approved like if you had good credit but if you work a bit you can find motorcycle lenders specializing in bad credit. Here are some options you may want to consider.

1. Online Motorcycle Lenders: The nice thing about working with online motorcycle lenders is that you are going directly to the lender and there is no middle man involved with placing you in a loan that may put you in a bad situation. Going directly to the lender for bad credit motorcycle loans is always better in my opinion because the lender does not want to place you in a loan you will default on. On the other hand, going through a middle man you will find the middle man will want to place you in a situation where they will make the most money which could be a very bad loan for you.

2. Credit Union: Your local credit union may buy bad credit motorcycle loan more often than the average loan at a dealer because the credit union only has a small percentage of its overall loan portfolio in bad credit motorcycle loans. This allows them to control losses a bit better than a dealer because they have other thinks finance not just motorcycles. So they may approve bad credit motorcycle loans a dealer will not touch.

3. Personal Loans: Many people with poor credit tend to many times go for personal loans. I only recommend this option as a last resort, but I would much rather a bad credit applicant get the credit straight before getting a personal loan. The reason being is personal loans typically have very negative terms for motorcycle buyers and they can sometimes have interest rates in the 30% range. This is not a good situation for a motorcycle buyer.

4. Local Banks: Sometimes local banks can be an option for finding bad credit motorcycle loans, but typically they are stricter than Credit Unions. So check with your online motorcycle lender or credit union before going to a local bank. But similar to a credit union, local banks probably do not have a ton of their loans in motorcycles so this helps you chances of getting approved sometimes. Many times the less experience a bank has with motorcycle loans the better for you because they can sometimes evaluate bad credit motorcycle loans the same way as a car loan which typically is much more lenient.

So in a nutshell, if you are looking for bad credit motorcycle financing it is totally possible. It will require you to do a little more research than the typical person with good credit, but your efforts will be well worth it when you are riding your new motorcycle. The best thing for you to consider is not getting frustrated if one lender turns you down, because there is definitely a bad credit motorcycle loan out there waiting for you. You just have to start online or at your local credit union to get going in the right direction to financing your motorcycle.